" Katazome" is a technique of dyeing a fabric or
paper. It literally means dyeing with molding.
In the process drawing, engraving,painting and printing
are also involved and the product can be brought up
to the height of an art.
Historically the technique of dyeing probably began
with dyeing a fabric, or else whatever it was intended
to be colored, with a single dye. Then the technique
has gradually developed into the one being able to
produce various complicated patterns. In the process,
people in many parts of the world appear to have
elaborated various types of technique.
The work of dyeing involves dyeing the pattern and
not dyeing the areas other than the pattern at the
same time. The technique for the latter: i.e., the
method preventing from being dyed is called
" Bosen" in Japan. The need of "Bosen" in
the process of dyeing appears paradoxical and yet "Bosen"
is indispensable for dyeing a pattern.
The technique of "Bosen" is not new nor
specific of Japan. It appears to have been elaborated
ever since the ancient era and in many part of the
world. Depending upon material available to the regionthey
have lived,
"Bosen" has been achieved by using various types
of waxes. Included are those harvested from woods, honeycomb,
paste obtained from crops, and even mud.
In Japan, the paste obtained from rice has been
used for "Bosen". And the technique of "Bosen" has
been applied for production of the popular beloved "Aizome" and
the splendid grandiose "Yuzen zome" , the
latter having been established since the 17th century.
Neither "Aizome" nor
" Yuzen zome" could not have been materialized
without the benefit of "Bosen" using the rice paste.
In the process of dyeing, "Katazome" requires
a "Katagami" paper as well as the rice
paste for
" Bosen". The "Katagami" paper is made
from layers of papers called "Washi", which literally
means Japanese paper. They are pasted together with persimmon
extract. A "Katagami" paper made of layers of the
Japanese papers is articularly important for "Katazome" because
of their tolerance for exquisitely finer engraving in addition
to their water resistance and durability for preservation.
The following is the summary of the
process and the material needed for "Katazome".
I. Material needed for "Katazome".
- "Katagami" papers.
- Rice paste.
- Pieces of fabric, papers and etc.,
on which a print is to be made.
- Soy beans, a grinding device and
a piece of cloth for filtering.
- "Design-knife".
- Spatula Dyes.
- Water.
II. The Process of "Katazome".
- "Shitazu": designing a
desired pattern on a white blank paper.
- Transfering the pattern: "Shitazu" onto
a "Katagami".
- "Katabori": to engrave
the "Katagami" along the pattern by a "design-knife".
- "Norioki": to fill in
the carved areas of the "Katagami" with
the paste using a spatula.
- Preparation of the fabric on which
a pattern is to be printed: to paint the entire
fabric with the"Goh-shiru", which is
the extracted juice of soy beans after soaking
them in water followed by
grinding. This process cannot be omitted, as it
will help prevent from oozing and assure better
fixation of the dye on the fabric.
- Coloring: to paint the non-carved
areas with the desired dye(s) and then make a print.
- Fixation: A heat treatment may be
necessary depending upon the type of the dye(s)
used for printing.
- Rinsing: Soak in water, remove the
paste and then dry.
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